• by Sarah Mahoney  @mahoney_sarah, February 9, 2012

It’s been nearly a decade since the term “metrosexual” first popped into the cultural lexicon, but men are still easing their way into the world of grooming products. New research from the NPD Group finds that while 9 out of 10 men over the age of 18 use some type of grooming product -- whether it’s deodorant, hair gel, shaving cream or fragrance -- only 25% use facial skincare products.

But with more and more prestige marketers launching cleansers, moisturizers, lip and eye products, and anti-aging treatments in department stores, that’s changing: The men’s facial skincare market grew 11% in dollar sales last year.

Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst with the Port Washington, N.Y.-based market researcher, tells Marketing Daily how men are gradually filling up their medicine cabinets.

Q: Why are men more open to these products now?

A: In some ways, it’s generational. Young men today grew up with people putting on sunblock, for instance. They’re used to the idea of men and women using something on their skin. Women are more open about men using products, so they encourage their partners to buy their own moisturizers, and stop using theirs. Another change is style-driven. Both men and women these days are gravitating toward a look that’s more tailored, and that means looking more polished, more groomed.

Q: Still, 25% is pretty low for facial products. What are the obstacles?

A: Men are very minimalistic in their approach, and very problem/solution-oriented. If they don’t see a problem or if no one tells them about it, they don’t see a need to buy a product. Women, on the other hand, have a whole different mentality. We see a lot more flaws, and are willing to buy specific products that address them. They’re also more relaxed about aging. Actors like Patrick Dempsey, who is 45, and George Clooney are still considered very sexy.

Q: What are men doing now?

A: More than one-third use facial cleansers, not including bar soap, as well as facial lotions and moisturizers. Three in 10 use lip products. And 26% are using acne treatment products. But they’re not so differentiated as women. Men have no problem using a body moisturizer on their face, until someone tells them there’s a better way.

Q: How does the department store channel affect these sales?

A: In two ways. First, they can get advice and instructions in department stores. And they can also get samples, as well as kits and sets, that make it easier for them to try new products.

Q: IBM Analytics just reported that retail sales for men’s apparel are up more than 8% in the most recent quarter. Do grooming products fit in with that?

A: Yes, and in fact, we’re seeing the fastest growth in premium products. Men aren’t just more willing to spend on themselves, they are more willing to spend more. Price seems to be a big differentiator. They see it as a worthy investment.