For decades, Cuba was devoid of television, radio and newspaper ads. Or any ads. President Raúl Castro's push for limited free-market reform is changing that. And the country's small-business owners have turned to low-cost, unconventional guerrilla. Getting the word out is "a nightmare," said Cedric Fernando, operator of Bollywood, the island's only Indian restaurant, which opened in December. "We're running a race with one leg."