China is the fastest-growing wine market in the world. The writer, a wine exporter to Asia markets who reports having been to several wine shows in Hong Kong that attract buyers from all over the world, says U.S. marketing performance is "at best pathetic." He writes that at last year's Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Faire, the French exhibit was "about the size of 10 boxcars, the Italian the same, South Africa four boxcars, Chile four boxcars. And America? A caboose." He goes on to say that USDA rules about wines will make matters worse.