• by Sarah Mahoney  @mahoney_sarah, June 20, 2012

When it comes to cosmetics, women are craving products that can practically tap dance while singing “Ave Maria,” according to a new report from the NPD Group. In fact, the more marketers create make-up with multiple benefits, the more women expect from them, with 86% saying they now look for makeup with additional skincare benefits.

Part of it is about money. “Makeup products with skincare benefits create a perception of ‘more bang for the buck,’ and consumers may believe they are getting more value,” the Port Washington, N.Y.-based market researcher says in its report. Moisturizers and sun protection are the most sought after “extras,” it reports, and 61% of the women in the survey say they look for benefits similar to the ones contained in their skincare products.

Perhaps the best example is the surge in popularity of a new category called BBs, short for beauty balms or blemish balms. While NPD says just 2% of women currently use these products, creating sales of about $9 million in the 12 months ended in March, their enthusiasm is high: 77% plan to repurchase them. And women are looking for BBs that can help them eliminate other products cluttering their counters: They want products that provide natural-looking coverage (52%), moisturize/hydrate skin (47%), nourish/treat skin (42%), provide SPF sunscreen protection (42%), and improve skin texture (38%).

Although the incidence of purchasing BB Creams is still small (2% of total beauty shoppers), 77% express positive repurchase intent. And four in 10 beauty shoppers overall say they are considering a BB Cream in the future.

Marketers are keeping a close eye on the category, since it has the potential to cannibalize so many other products. “Almost 7 in 10 BB Cream purchasers have replaced either a makeup or skincare product with a BB Cream. Even though usage is low right now, as more brands enter the market and the category grows, cannibalization could become a much larger challenge,” NPD reports. Prestige brands like Estee Lauder, Clinique, and Stila already have BBs out there, as do such mass brands as Maybelline and Garnier.

Overall, older women are more likely to seek products that pack moisturizing and anti-aging benefits, while younger women prefer products that help control oil and acne.

In foundations, the most in-demand benefit is the ability to even out skin tone -- important to 76% of women, regardless of age or ethnic group. SPF protection, moisturizing, and oil-free/won’t clog pores come in next.

For lipstick, long-wearing (74%) and moisturizing (68%) are by far the highest-rated attributes. For lip gloss, women want a glossy finish (65%) and moisturizing abilities (64%). For mascara, consumers want thickening/volume (63%) and lengthening (62%).