Celebrities such as Nicole Kidman and Cameron Diaz have worn Mouret's designs. But unlike H&M's treatment of its designs, Gap didn't display Mouret's name in stores or windows or even on the clothing.
"It's a missed execution," says Mark Montagna, an analyst at New York-based CL King & Associates.
More retailers are using high-end designers to boost traffic and sales. Target Corp. sells Isaac Mizrahi clothing; Kohl's Corp. will sell a collection by Vera Wang.
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